Sat in the historic centre of Palma, just a 6 minute walk from Catedral de Mallorca, is BONDO Cocina. This small, family-run restaurant delivers a modern take on traditional Spanish cuisine, bringing fresh energy to familiar flavours.
The story
This vigour at BONDO Cocina may be explained by how recently they have opened and the story of the people who opened it. Established in May 2023, BONDO is the brainchild of Argentinian couple Andrea and Carlos. Prior to this project in Majorca, Andrea was an architect, and Carlos, a former sock manufacturer. The expert touch of Andrea is perceptible from the cohesive use of colours and materials for the interior of the restaurant. The sleek yet warm interior gives off a clean impression, like an empty plate ready to hold and present whatever wonder the kitchen was going to deliver. Carlos, with his passion for food and cooking, fills this plate beautifully with his creations. The former sock manufacturer honed his skills through cooking for family and friends over the years. When I was told this, I can only be envious of his friends, for what Carlos whips up is beyond our usual understanding of home cooking.
The elegant presentations, precise control of seasoning and flavours, and creative use of ingredients are evocative of finer dining.
I am most grateful for Carlos' decision to step into the restaurant business and share his magic with not just his close circle of family and friends, but us hungry diners as well.
The food
My experience at BONDO Cocina is a little different from the usual you'd find at the restaurant for I visited for a private event where the entire restaurant was booked out. In turn, the dishes we were served diverged from BONDO's usual offerings. We were offered a tailored 6-course menu and what stood out to me was Carlos' ability to deliver fine and quality plates consistently and simultaneously to all 28 covers from his small kitchen. The ingredients were fresh and local, the flavours and intent of the chef were clear for every course. There is a clear sense of balance in terms of flavours and textures for every dish. Moreover, there is always a distinct twist for every dish we were served.
(Descriptions of dishes pictured from left to right) The fresh avocado gazpacho with its creamy texture and mild flavour was spiced by chilli oil, and the minerality of the fish and prawn croquettes was enhanced by the mango coulis that is sat upon. A dish that brought a pleasant surprise is the gambas tartar that used a soy sauce and sesame oil dressing which brought out the sweetness of the crustaceans. The quinoa underneath the fresh prawns gave a little nuttiness to the appetizer and the corn nuts that were mixed into the quinoa salad acted like little crunchy, salty jewels that further highlighted the softness and sweetness of the prawns.
Though, the star of the show was definitely the creamy rice dish with carabineros. Having had this dish, I can tell that Carlos has a way with his seafood. Not only were the prawns extremely fresh, they were cooked to perfection. The meat was dark red and plump, and the smell of seared crustaceans wafted from the dish. A bite of the shrimp and a spoon of the rice confirmed my suspicions: the dish was stunning, and I could tell that everyone in the restaurant shared the same sentiment. You could hear clearly from every table the way the prawn heads were unabashedly cleaned of its juices. Hands got involved, and we were attached to those prawn heads like an infant to their pacifier.
Etiquette is thrown out the door when you're presented with such a delight.
The statement
It was only after our event that I discovered that our 6-course menu was a personalised one. I was elated to find out, for it meant a completely different set of appetizers and mains is available if I were to visit again - and visit again I would. Next time I find myself in Palma, I would be sure to reserve a table at BONDO Cocina. Beyond the pristine waters and mesmerising sunsets of Majorca, the warm and hospital welcome by Andrea and the gastronomic finesse of Carlos would be what pulls me back to this mediterranean island.
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